Nah, not much of an achievement hunter. And filling in the map in GBC Zelda usually gets you most of the secrets.
I run 16 Bit Virtual Studios. You can find more reviews from me on YouTube youtube.com/@16bitvirtual or other social media @16bitvirtual, and we sell our 3D Printed stuff on 16bitstore.com
Nah, not much of an achievement hunter. And filling in the map in GBC Zelda usually gets you most of the secrets.
“Vita means life”
Not that Sony game it any chance
It’s a PS Vita 2000, Sony’s “Budget” Vita.
I’ve tried it, but honestly when I started this session of Ages I didn’t care. Might do it when replaying Seasons thou.
Had a Vita 1000 since launch (got the first edition bundle). Then years later I got a Vita2SD which destroyed the card reader (my mistake). So I got this JP Vita 2000 since I wanted one in Blue and the Vita 2000 is pricey.
Retroarch is a wonderful tool to play older games on whatever you have, though it’s a lot of work, the effort to get a device like a GBxCart or to hack a 3DS to get the ROMs is worth playing.
Personally I miss small form factor systems like the Vita, and hope that there will be a Steam Deck Lite one day that is pocketable.
Got seasons when it was on 3DS VC and beat that a while ago. Love the password progress thingy.
Mostly the sub $5 games since if I don’t play it, its fine. Like Celeste
I too install Linux Mint, though Fedora Silverblue and Kinote is another good alternative.
The FunkoPop Store EB Games here in Canada were re-labeled to GameStop recently. They’re still in every Mall in the land from what I’ve seen. Though they are doing better. Game selection isn’t what it use to be, but the variety is growing now. I was surprised when I found Manga in our local GameStop.
Not exactly my cup of tea, but catering to “Nerd” culture, and going beyond “Merch” is something I can get behind, since it’s rare to see another store not selling the same old drivel as everyone else.
I’ve been at this for years, most of my designs are like your solid parts (Display Stands and DS Stylus). I’ve only recently tried experimenting with moving parts, and I’ve found using mixed mediums the best when 3D printing. i.e. using cloth or leather as the moving medium, with TPU or PETG for strength/flexibility.
As for what this is for. I’ve designed and made 3D Printable e-reader cases, which this link will show you the printable parts for, but I’d like to make a case for my iPad and other tablets, however I want to be able to prop it up and for it to be stable. This is designed with my cases in mind, and it has the clearance to lay flush with the back panel.
End goal is to have this embeded in the back so I can prop it up landscape, while I have another in the sleep cover so it can be propped up portrait, like an easel.
I could achieve the same effect by making the arms thicker. Though I am thinking of printing the screw caps in TPU to see if I can make it stiffer that way.
Trying to keep the parts the same as the main thing this belongs too. M2 threaded inserts and 5mm screws. So not a lot of flexibility when it comes to thickness. That said, as a MK2 I’d probably make it 2mm thick rather than 1.2mm since that’s my goto size for stiffness.
Somewhere between Minecraft Java edition and a modern title made with the Steam Deck in mind, like TMNT Shreaders Revenge.
I’m just happy to see a slowly increasing support base, even if its just to support wine
I didn’t have to do that. Bought my parts from Canada Computers and they open the Motherboard box in store before the sale, to inspect it, and I had to sign off on it.
That said I had some issues of my own design. My PC has a space for a 3 1/2" floppy and I wanted it internal so I got a USB adapter for it to run off of the internal header. The damn board locks up on boot if its in.
Probably a setting but still annoying
While its annoying, its so easy to unsubscribe that I see it as a fair price for a free game.
Still one of my favourite sounds tracks to any game.
Ram is x2 16GB sticks, my BIOS yelled at me for not putting them in the optimum channels.
M.2 has my 2TB Linux Mint install and my 1TB Windows install. I’m not dual booting, just having the Windows install nearby just in case.
Well I did enable XMP, but since I’m on a B series board I don’t think I can overclock. And she’s toasty as is with the intel cooler.
I have the old physical copy. The DRM on it is awful, get the GOG copy.
Right, lots of suggestions for Bambu and Prusa and rightfully so. But their prices are high and while they are worth it, they wouldn’t be what I’d suggest for a first time printer.
The Ender 3 is what I’d suggest, though not the V1. The S1 or the v3 and good starting points for being in budget and having some modern features.
This isn’t like the mid 2010’s where it was hit or miss and the printers will have a slight chance of burning your house down. Hictop anyone? But these days even a $200 printer is good enough to start printing.
That said software is going to be your biggest pain point.
For the slicer make sure its compatible with PrusaSlicr or Cura. Preferability the former. This makes the models to print, and some cheep third party slicers makes their own with questionable quality and support.
For modeling, you have some options. Blender if you are looking to design 3d shapes like clay. Fusion360 is a cheap and free (while limited) solution for parametric cad design. With TinkerCAD is a good in between. But like Photoshop is to gimp, Fusion 360 is to FreeCAD and it may be worth learning how FreeCAD works since its an extremely flexible tool.
TL:DR Ender 3 V3/S1, Prusa Slicer, Cura, Blender, TinkerCAD, Fusion360, FreeCAD and you should be too to start printing and making brackets.
Instruction unclear, spent more money than I had, so now I owe the mafia money. Any idea on how to pay them back?